![]() Although I also used dark grey for the second top cover and white for the skull. It's tight but it works! To achieve a slightly more realistic look, I've mainly opted for Silver and Gold PLA filaments. To do this, just rotate the larger parts 45ยบ, this way you'll print them diagonally, using the area in the most effective way. This project is relatively big for a small printer, however I was careful during the design stage in order to always be able to print all parts using a small bed like 200 mm x 200 mm (for example max. For this step, I'll be using a Prusa I3 Rework that I've built a few months ago. Alternatively if you have access to a 3D printer, you can print the parts yourself.What this means is that they'll do the printing for you at a certain price, depending on several things like the size/weight of the part or the amount of filament used, the type of material that you chose, among others. Then you can arrange the delivery of your prints directly to you or set a meeting with the printer for a local pickup. It shows how many printers are available to you and what options do they have in terms of materials, colors, etc. If you don't have a 3D printer, then you can use 3D Hubs, it allows you to find 3D printers in your area.So if you don't want to design them and just want to replicate this hidden blade you can download them for free. I've made all parts available both attached to this step and on myminifactory (although I wouldn't recommend downloading from the latter, since they've messed up all the files and names, it would make it more confusing). Besides the "blade", "sliders", "locks" and "switch" there also a few other parts like the "base", the "covers" among other decorative parts. However it's hard to explain, specially because it only works well when the casing is closed, so you don't actually see it working. The mechanism might seem a bit complicated but it's actually pretty simple. This one is called "switch" and when it slides it also unlocks the blade at certain positions, therefore releasing the tension of the rubber band and ultimately moving the blade. Finally there is another piece that also slides inside the mechanism, and it's responsible for keeping the tension of the elastic band. Then there are 2 "locks" that keep the blade in place either when its retracted or deployed. The rubber band connects two parts, called "sliders", one is on the back and is responsible for pushing the blade out, and another is on the front and it's the one that pulls the blade back in. The secret is the springs or in this case, rubber bands, when activated, they will release the accumulated energy onto the blade, making it slide out or slide in the casing. In a simple way, the hidden blade uses the OTF mechanism, so I based my design on many other hidden blades that are already out there. My intention was not to make it exactly the same, I prefer having some creativity freedom and do my own thing, so that's why this is an Edward Inspired blade. ![]() ![]() So I looked at the official replica and decided to design something similar. Even though my personal favourites are the first games I have to admit that Edward's blade from ACIV Black Flag was pretty awesome! Maybe because he was a pirate, maybe because there is a skull, I don't know, thing is I thought if I was gonna draw inspiration from any blade, it would be his. There are a lot of Assassin's Creed games by now, and all of them have different versions of the hidden blade. ![]() So instead of just doing a functional hidden blade, I thought it would be way funnier if I could make it look cool. It's pretty easy to use and has more than enough tutorial lessons to get you up and running quickly! Even better, it's highly focused on 3D printing, so you can download your designs in the format that you like best. For this I used Tinkercad, it's a simple web application, so it runs on your browser, you don't need to install anything, your designs are on the cloud, so you can use it everywhere. ![]()
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